Sleepers: Things you should be eating but perhaps aren't aware of.

South Beach is gaining increasing prestige in the food press, having recently been the subject of, among others, a rather extensive New York Times piece which focused on several new spots, including Table 8, Sardinia, and David Bouley Evolution. As each new retaurant (oftentimes an import from NY or LA) joins the fray, certain stand-out dishes gain in noteriety. Indeed, there are a number of dishes available on the Beach with which every gourmand is familiar. The rock shrimp tempura in creamy spicy sauce at Nobu. Four Cheese Truffle MAC at Prime 112. Risotto at Casa Tua. And that's just for openers. You probably have your own favorites. However, in his travels, the Baron has found that a number of dishes and experiences go unnoticed, either because the restaurants themselves are not as well known, people aren't aware of certain lunchtime-only treats, or perhaps because the selections are not so obvious. Here then are ten things you should be eating but probably aren't. You will note that the list includes both high and low cuisine, as they are equally important when executed correctly.

1. The Armand Salad at Joe's Stone Crab. The Baron was first introduced to the Armand Salad by a colleague and has been addicted ever since. The Armand is only available at lunch, and only in the restaurant (not the Take Away). Some scoff at having a salad at Joe's. Some are only at Joe's for dinner. Make an effort and have this as it is fantastic. Somewhat like a Caesar, but tastier and more sophisticated. Sweet white onions, green bell peppers, parm, and fantastic croutons. It sounds simple but a look at the recipe (found in the Joe's cookbook) demonstrates that the dressing is somewhat complex in composition and includes garlic (which makes everything good), mayo, and a significant amount of lemon juice, lending a tangy bite. An extremely satisfying salad and one that you will come to crave especially given its general unavailability.

2. Baby burgers at Cheeseburger Baby. If there is a perfect late-night snack, this is it. The Baron stumbled upon the baby burgers (sliders, really) after seeing Harold and Kumar Go To White Castle and realizing that there is no White Castle within driving distance of South Beach (alas). Not to worry, as these are better. Get a half dozen with lettuce, tomatoes, onions, cheese, and make sure you've got the pickles too. Extremely tasty and amazingly satisfying. So much so that the Baron once nearly got into a brawl with an inebriated clubgoer who tried to steal one off his plate. The Baron threatened to break the interloper's hands, and only the quick intervention of the hamburgler's four less tipsy chums saved him the trip to the hospital.

3. Dim Sum at Mr. Chu's. No need to drive to Tropical any more (indeed, chef Chu used to work at Tropical). No need to lament that Miss Yip discontinued the dim sum carts shortly after opening. Go to Washington and 9th any afternoon and your needs will be met. The char siu bao is perfect. The dedicated seafood cart boasts dumplings with scallops, shrimp, and even king crab (you must try these). The pan fried items are in fact pan fried on the cart at your tableside. Mr. Chu even has chicken feet, which you may not partake of but it's nice to know they have it--demonstrates authenticity. Also try the clams in black bean sauce and the cuttlefish curry--both are stellar. The Baron is astonished at how quiet this place is on Sunday afternoons which suggests that either (a) no one understands dim sum, or (b) word hasn't gotten around yet.

4. The shrimp tempura roll at Blue Sea. The communal sushi table in the Delano lobby is itself a sleeper--very good sushi and an excellent place to watch the show. The Baron often brings out-of-towners here for a quick dose of the South Beach experience. The shrimp tempura roll is enormous and topped with mango and avocado. At one end, the shrimp's head peeks through, while the tail juts out the back. Great presentation. Also worthwhile are the multiple sauces set out. In addition to the traditional soy, ponzu and eel one has the option of peanut and kimchee.

5. Primo's Pizza. The Baron has tried it all--Rustica, Gino's, Fratelli la Buffala, Master's, Macalusos, Au Naturel. The Baron even remembers Puccis. The Baron still enjoys a slice from Rustica between the hours of 2 AM and 3 AM (that sounds like a Jack Bauer reference). But if the Baron is going to order a pizza, it's going to have meatballs on it and it's coming from Primo's, which is a relatively new spot on First between Collins and Washington (next to the Surf Shack). Thin, crispy crust, outstanding tomoto sauce, great toppings, and more panache than you'll find at most pizza parlours. They deliver and you need to try this.

6. Wild buri at Shoji. The Baron still misses Shin, and Shoji is still not as good as it used to be. But it's still better than most. If it's in season, get the wild buri. Wild buri is giant yellowtail flown in from Japan. It is delicious, expensive, and worth your while. A rough analogy might go like this: toro is to tuna as wild buri is to yellowtail. Not a proper SAT analogy but should give you an idea. Get it either sushi or sashimi style. When at Shoji or any other reputable sushi joint, stick to the daily specials. Whatever came in off the plane or boat that morning, that's what you want.

7. The BLT at Joe Allen. A lunchtime favorite. Drop into Joe Allen's for lunch on a Saturday. It's quiet and civilized and very relaxed. Order the BLT, which is uncharacteristically served on ciabatta bread. Joe Allen does not short you on the bacon, which is crispy and perfect. A bit of Caesar salad accompanies the sandwich. An ideal weekend lunch.

8. Lobster Cobb Salad at Nemo. Nemo is great for dinner (get that enormous shrimp cocktail and some oysters) and their brunch is first rate. But if you go at lunch (maybe because Joe's is closed), get the Maine Lobster Cobb Salad. Make sure you're hungry, as it is huge. You could split one with a friend if you are into that whole "sharing" thing. A very generous amount of lobster meat with corn, avocado, chopped egg, tomato, and large chunks of appelwood smoked bacon over greens and tossed with a very interesting creamy tarragon dressing. Have one with a bloody mary or a glass of champagne and you're all set.

9. The meatball hero at Macalusos Market. The Baron doesn't really want you to know about this. The Baron does not want to see crowds at this spot, which is perhaps the biggest "sleeper" on the Beach. Did you know that Macalusos opened a second operation right next door to the original restaurant, and that it is only open for lunch? Good, don't tell anybody. You know the meatballs are the best, but you didn't know you could get one sliced in half and put on a sub roll with cheese and sauce.

10. Prime Rib at Prime 112. Prime 112 hardly needs any more promotion. The Baron could go on about the kobe beef sliders, the house-made tater tots, and that damn mac and cheese. But if you go on Sunday, you must order the prime rib, beause Sunday is the only day they serve it. Sixteen-ounce bone-in prime rib, that is. This is very simple--the Baron has had prime rib at the Angus Barn in Raleigh, at Burns in Tampa, at the Palm, at Smith & Wollensky, and any number of other spots from Victoria Station to the Coral Grill (is that even open any more?). The Baron has been eating prime rib since he first had teeth. This is the best prime rib anywhere. Period.

The Best Burger: Father's Office

Shake Shack may have won the popular vote for "best burger" at this year's First Annual Burger Bash, but only because most attendees at the South Beach Food and Wine Festival simply don't know what they're talking about. Maybe they all came to see Rachael Ray. In any event, the best burger at the Burger Bash, and possibly the best burger in the U.S. (no, it's not Le Tub) is the Father's Office burger, from Father's Office in Santa Monica. Father's Office is not in Miami but be assured that the Baron cornered chef/owner Sang Yoon and urged him to open a South Beach branch. Chef Yoon promised he was looking into it. There are rumors that Shake Shack is coming to South Beach, so Chef Yoon had better get in gear on this. In the meantime, here's why the Father's Office burger is the best:

The meat: In addition to the traditional chuck, the Father's Office burger incorporates trimings from 28-day dry aged New York strip steaks, lending a superior flavor. If you like the kobe sliders at Prime 112 or the Morton's sirloin burger, you will love this. Rich, complex, beefy flavor that transcends the typical burger experience.

The cheese: Chef Yoon throws in a bit of Maytag blue and offsets the strong flavor with melted Gruyere of the sort you would typically find capping a crock of French onion soup. Much better than cheddar or Swiss in this context. You're not eating American cheese, are you? You do know that American cheese isn't actually cheese, right?

The condiment: Chef Yoon has been compared to the Soup Nazi for his refusal to allow substiutions or to permit the use of ketchup or mustard on his burgers. Don't worry, you don't need it. Instead, the Father's Office burger is topped with an onion compote that includes bits of Wisconsin dry-aged bacon. The compote also apparently makes use of bacon fat, but don't let that scare you. It's not like you're eating trans-fat here, so live a little.

The greens: Topping off the proceedings is a bit of organic baby arugla. Brilliant.

The bun: Well it's not a bun, per se, but rather a demibaguette toasted with butter and garlic. A traditional bun would not suffice, and given the heft of the Father's Office burger, the sturdier construction of the demibaguette seems more appropriate from an engineering perspective.

The end result: A burger of bold and sublime flavors. A very, very rich burger, but more satisfying than the DB Burger with its stuffing of black truffles, foie gras, and braised short rib. More complex than a kobe style burger. More intense than the burger at Joe's Stone Crab (which is actually quite excellent--go to Joe's Take Away and try one). Certainly not traditional, but still quite clearly a burger, and yet also a gourmet experience worth repeating as frequently as possible. Memo to Chef Yoon--the Baron has some recommedations on where to site the South Beach branch.

The Baron's Guide to Clubbing

Several recent outings to South Beach nightspots including Mynt, Prive, Sagamore, Rok Bar, and Suite, along with some incidents at Tao in Vegas and G Spa in New York have inspired the Baron to share his tips and techniques for getting the most out of the club/lounge experience. The information should be equally applicable to Miami, New York, LA, and Vegas.

10. Plan ahead.
Don't go to a popular nightspot without making prior arrangements. Rolling up to the velvet rope without either a table reservation, a spot on the guest list, or a connection with a doorman or promoter means you risk standing in line for an hour or more, possibly with a hundred other partygoers, and most likely in less than ideal conditions (e.g. on a sidewalk in 90 degree heat or being pushed and shoved by those anxious to get in). And don't rely on having friends inside. Even if your buddy with a table and ten bottles comes outside to wave you in, the door staff may not care. And don't assume you can buy your way in. The Baron has seen guys waving Amex Black Cards at the doormen at Suite, to no avail. Still, it helps to be well-dressed, and pulling up in a Phantom or other exotic car can't hurt either.

9. Know who you are dealing with.
When you speak to someone by phone, get their name. If a promotor or club employee is going to facilitate your entrance and you haven't met them before, ask what they look like. If you talk to "Jack" on the phone and then arrive at your venue asking for Jack, nine times out of ten the door staff will tell you they've never heard of Jack and no Jack works at the club. Of course they're lying. They do that. Insist on having your contact's cell number so that you can call or send a text if you're having trouble at the door. They should come out and get you.

8. Bring cash.
No matter how well you plan, no matter how well connected you are, things can still go wrong. You may get hit with a $40 cover charge. You may have to bribe someone at the door. You may have to bribe more people inside to get into VIP rooms or to ensure a decent table. Bring plenty of cash. You'll also need it to tip bathroom attendants, buy things from roving cigarette girls, and to pay your tab. You don't want to put down your credit card if you can avoid it. At the bar inside the club, you may be required to open a tab to use your credit card. When you are ready to leave, you are ready to leave--you don't want to wait an extra 20 minutes retrieving your credit card and driver's license at a crowded bar. The same goes for closing out after a night of bottle service. This also eliminates any chance of forgetting your card or being the subject of identity fraud.

7. Expect the unexpected.
Even if you have a table reservation and four Vivid Video contract players in tow (if you do, the Baron would like to hang out with you), you can still run into trouble. Your name may not be on the list (or you might be told it's not even if it is). Your connection might not be out front, or may be unreachable. The club might have been cited by the fire marshal the night before, the owner just let his friends in, and there is simply no more capacity for you and your entourage, regardless of your reservations. Someone in your group may get belligerent with an obnoxious doorman and get you banned for the evening. Many of these events are simply efforts to squeeze more money out of you. Be prepared, be patient, and be willing to reach into your pocket.

6. Everything is negotiable.
You may be told over the phone or at the door that your group must buy a minimum of four bottles. Don't assume that's final. You may be shown to a bad table. Don't accept it. Many of these "events" are again designed to milk more cash out of you. For bottle service, try offering the waitress a bigger tip if she lowers your bottle miniumum. The Baron has seen it work. Remember, these clubs aren't run like regular businesses, Just as the club itself gets away with a lot, you should be able to as well.

5. Go frequently.
If you like a certain spot, go back often and get to know the staff. If the people at the door recognize you as a regular customer they are much more likely to let you in immediately. Make sure to say hello, shake hands, and learn people's names. This can really save you when the place gets crowded.

4. Keep your cool.
The time will come (frequently, in fact) when you will be tempted to argue with the club's staff. Pick your battles. Fighting with the door staff will get you nowhere, and any sign of belligerence will just ensure you are denied entry. Once you are inside, you can be more aggressive about table placement and bottle minimums. And do feel free to get aggressive if you believe your bill is wrong. It probably is.

3. Location, location, location.
When you're reserving tables, think about where you want to sit. Many clubs have multiple rooms, and some are clearly better than others. Find out if different rooms within the club play different kinds of music. Ask if entry to a particular VIP room will cost more. Get a sense of where you want to be before you arrive. If you leave it to the club staff, you will probably end up dissatisfied.

2. Girls, girls, girls.

Whatever you do, bring women with you. If you are a women, dressing like a $500-an-hour call girl might be helpful. And at a minimum, have a 50/50 ratio of males to females. Even a table reservation and all the right connections can still result in long waits, high cover charges, and ridiculous minimum bottle requirements if you arent' travling with women. In addtion, remember that even if your name is on that clipboard, you have to get up to the rope to speak with the door staff to get in. Easier said than done if 200 people are waiting out front. If you have attractive women with you, you will have a much easier time getting the staff's attention. If you are traveling with good looking women, take full advantage. They will likely eliminate most any problem you might otherwise have.

1. Relax and don't take this seriously.
If this entire discussion sounds ridiculous, that's because it is. You have to be in the right frame of mind to go out to a place like Suite or Tao or whatever the "in" place is and put up with this nonsense. Even A-list film and music stars sometimes have trouble getting into these venues ("Don't you know who I am"???). Also remember that clubs are not service-oriented and might not treat you well regardless of who you are, what you do, or how much money you have. If you run into a problem, don't lose your cool, don't yell at the doormen, and don't drop more money than your're comfortable parting with just to buy your way in. If you start bribing the door and agreeing to buy six bottles for your table of five, you're going to feel ripped off in the morning. Don't be afraid to take your business elsewhere, and don't let a denial of entry ruin your evening.

L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon--The Baron is Back

The Baron is back by popular demand. Rest assured, the Baron has not stopped eating and drinking. Indeed, the Baron is recently returned from Las Vegas (what happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas, unless your physician tells you otherwise), and has a series of reviews in the pipeline. First off is L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, a spin-off of the Paris restaurant. If you want to pop in to the original, it's in the Seventh, and Zagat's gives it a 26. And yes, it's that Joel Robuchon--France's "Chef of the Century." L'Atelier is located in the MGM Grand, right next to Joel Robuchon at the Mansion, Robuchon's more formal establishment in Vegas. L'Atelier differs from most restaurants in that the bulk of the seating is set at a counter surrounding the open kitchen. Much like sitting a sushi counter. Or a diner. Except most diners don't serve quail, foie gras, and black truffles. There is significant interaction with the staff, and service is excellent. The room is modern, all blacks and reds.

The menu is essentially divided between small plates and entrees. Most of the small plates also come in entree-size portions. The staff recommends the tasting menu, which is probably the way to go given the large number of appealing selections. However, due to the availability of a special not found on the menu degustation, the Baron went a la carte.

Crispy langostine fritter with basil pesto. A single langostine (more than a shrimp, less than a lobster in both size and flavor) llightly battered, served atop microgreens and topped with a bit of basil pesto. The batter was much like a tempura, and not at all greasy.

Poached baby Kumamoto oysters with French "Echire" salted butter and micro chives. Four Kumamotos served atop a bed of sea salt. The oysters were raw but the warm butter drizzled atop each served to gently poach them. The micro chives added some additional flavor, but the intermix of the briny oysters with the warm butter was just perfect. And what is Echire butter, you ask? Echire is a famed artisan French butter, from the milk of cows of the small village of Poitiers and La Rochelle. Echire is known as one of the best butters in France, which is why the greedy French keep 85% of the production for domestic use. These are the sort of details that separate the good from the great in the restaurant industry. Even better was a bit of L'Atelier's top-notch Parisian-style bread dipped into the remaining butter.

The Baron's neighboring diners were enjoying some interesting selections, including fresh cod in vegetable broth, roast quail, and scallops. But nothing was getting as much attention as the evening special, the special that steered the Baron away from the tasting menu but resulted in a similarly punishing l'addition (that's "check" in French)--black truffle spaghetti. Spaghetti in a cream sauce spiked with flecks of black truffles. Additional black truffles were shaved on top. That is perhaps an understatment. The truffle shavings were so generous that they completely covered the spaghetti. Rich, decadent, and well, yes, expensive. But come on, its black truffles from Joel Robuchon. Perfect with champagne by the glass.

You may also want to try Robuchon's famous mashed potatos, which seem to be a 50/50 mix of potato to butter. Just a few years ago, the food press was suggesting that Robuchon was yesterday's news, but he is back with a vengeance. Word is that another L'Atelier will be opening in New York. Welcome news for East-coasters and anyone who enjoys food done right.

Babbo: The Promised Land

Mario Batali. You know him, don't you? Red hair? Ponytail? Khaki shorts and orange clogs? Perhaps you've seen him cooking on the Food Network, speaking to his guests and to you with a hint of condescension. Perhaps you've seen him traveling through Italy eating things you would kill your first born to taste. It could be that you've seen him pull a rabbit out of his hat on Iron Chef America by coming up with some ridiculously rich veal and ricotta meatball concoction in a matter of seconds. Or maybe you have one of his cookbooks sitting on your shelf. But if you are really fortunate, you have eaten at one of Batali's Manhattan restaurants. Please do, as Mario probably needs to buy a new Vespa.

If you have no idea what the Baron is talking about and the notion of getting on an airplane to go eat is alien to you, there is an Olive Garden down the street. Enjoy.

Still here? Mario is one of the top chefs in the U.S. Don't be fooled by the television appearances and the marketing. Mario knows his business, and his restaurant empire--Babbo, Esca, Otto, Lupa, Casa Mono, Bistro du Vent (and the just-opened Del Posto)--is impressive in its consistency and quality. True, Mario is not, and could not possibly be, in the kitchen all the time. But his imprint is unmistakable, and he trains his underlings well. The Baron has seen Mario coming out the kitchen at Babbo on more than one occasion, though Mr. Batali gives the Baron a wide berth. There was an incident involving some infused grappa, and, well that's not important right now.

Babbo is of course the flagship restaurant. Opened in 1998, Babbo is located at 110 Waverly Place, close to Mario's other outposts, and mostly critically, close to the basement cellar at Italian Wine Merchants (of which Mario is a co-owner). Babbo snared three stars from the New York Times, and only missed a fouth (unheard of for Italian restaurants) for relatively minor quibbles like the crowded bar area (true) and the loud rock music that incongruously plays from the speakers (also true, but not entirely unwelcome--Babbo is not the place for Sinatra or Dean Martin). But surely you can handle some Franz Ferdinand as you dig into your marinated fresh sardines with caramelized fennel and lobster oil. And good luck getting a table. One needs to call promptly in the AM exactly one month prior to the desired reservation date. Or you could try calling in the early afternoon on the day of, hoping to slip in on a cancellation.

The room is cozy and civilized--lots of dark wood, wine bottles, mood lighting, and copies of Mario's cookbooks. The restaurant is located in an old carriage house, and boasts a full bar and upstairs and downstairs dining area. Service is extremely professional.

Babbo's menu includes a lot of things one might not normally eat. Tripe. Lamb's tongue. Testa. Sweetbreads. As Lewis Black would say, "I sense some of you pulling away from me." But follow along as the Baron takes you through one of his best dinners in the past year--and not just because he was sitting with an exquisitely beautiful southern belle with a penchant for yoga:

Chef's amuse: Crostini with chick peas and olive tapenade. Delicious, and the Baron doesn't even like black olives.

The wine list: Again, Mario is a co-owner of Italian Wine Merchants, so the list draws on a vast resource of top-flight Italian varietals. If you like Italian reds, this is the greatest list you will ever see outside of the Old Country. Quinterelli Amarone Riserva from 1976? Are you kidding? Barolos. Brunellos. Wines from Sardinia and Sicily. Obscure wines. Great wines, including the evening's Montefalco Sagrantino.

Appetizers: Most of the Baron's party jumped right to the primi, but you might try the five autumn vegetable salad with goat's milk ricotta and pumpkin seed oil, or perhaps the grilled octopus with borlotti marinati and spicy limoncello vinaigrette. Limoncello--it's not just for getting soused anymore.

Primi: Black pepper papardelle with wild board ragu. Mario's papardelle is homemade (of course) and seems nearly as wide as a lasanga noodle. The wild boar likely comes from noted game purveyor D'Artagnan. Oustanding. The Bucatini all' Amatriciana and spaghettini with spicy budding chives, sweet garlic, and one pound lobster are also worth your while.

Pumpkin "Lune" with Sage and amaretti. Half-moon shaped agnolotti (similar to a ravioli, just shaped differently) stuffed with pumpkin in a sage butter sauce. The waiter completes the dish by grating an amaretti cookie on top of the pasta. Inspired, yet sublime. Ever have a cookie grated over your pasta? Bet you haven't. A must-have at Babbo.

Secondi: Spicy two minute calamari, Sicilian Lifeguard Style. In his Babbo cookbook, Mario readily admits that he has never met a Sicilian lifeguard. The calamari is served in a spicy tomato broth with olives, currants, and other interesting tidbits. Reflecting the heavy North African influence on Sicilian cooking, the dish also incorporates cous-cous. Many spots in Sicily serve it instead of pasta.

Deconstructed Ossobucco for two with saffron orzo, cavolo nero and chestnut gremolata. Each veal shank is about the size of a human head. An unappetizing comparison, perhaps, but also accurate. Fork tender and rich enough for the most discerning veal aficionado. The saffron orzo, silky and rich. The black cabbage spiked with a citrusy note. An outstanding rendition of the Italian classic, and perhaps unsurpassed in the States.

Cheese course: robiolo bosina, taleggio latte crudo, and parmagiano reggiano. You love the cheese course. The Baron does not want to hear Alan Richman grouse about the cheese trolly. The Baron loves the cheese trolly. Very, very civilized. Of course, one might prefer the chocolate hazelnut cake with orange sauce and hazelnut gelato, or perhaps a saffron panna cotta with peaches and lemon balm. If you see an olive oil cake, order one.

Digestif: something needs to burn through the food. A local variant of Fernet Branca from the Veneto had the color of caramel and the wafting aroma of military-grade jet fuel. Satisfying and effective. Pay no attention to those who eschew grappas and fernet. Philistines! You need this stuff to burn a hole through all the food sitting in your stomach.

One wonders whether Del Posto will become Mario's new favorite, but early indications are that Babbo will retain the mantle. As the Michelin Guide would say, worth a special trip.

The Restaurant at the Setai

The Setai hotel just opened in August, and already the Restaurant (simply called the Restaurant at the Setai), the bar, and the Crustacean (the Setai's champagne and caviar lounge) are packed. This is one of the hottest tickets in town because, well, because it's new. But also because it's good. The bar is an outstanding place for a drink, and every inch of the hotel is beatuifully designed with a mixture of carved teak, bronze, Chinese brick, tasteful art, and carefully selected details. The enormous flower arrangement on the table at the entrance to the restaurant gets a lot of compliments from female guests. Keep an eye out for the oversized natural history book. You will see the same one on the shelf at Casa Tua.

The restaurant is divided into multiple areas, including seating in front of the open kitchen, just to the right of a glass case displaying various chocolates and dessert items. The dining room to the left of the hostess stand seems preferable to the larger, less intimate room on the West side of the corrider. There is a nice semi-private dining room as well for larger parties. Alternatively, dinner can be taken outside in sunken banquettes along the reflecting pool. Chairs are plush and comfortable though the tables seemed a bit too low (or the chairs too high).

The Restaurant's menu pulls together elements from India, China, and Thailand, with a few curveballs thrown in. There is a small menu of pizzas, including a truffle pizza. Also included are a few grilled items. The Restaurant's strengths lie in the Chinese and Thai dishes, such as diver scallops in XO sauce and the pad thai. The duck dishes also stand out. The Indian selections are not bad, and despite what you may have read elsewhere, the naan is quite good. But $42 seems shockingly excessive for a platter of thalis. Then again, there is not much Indian food available in South Florida. Supply and demand, perhaps? The Baron would be thrilled if the Restaurant would add a lamb vindaloo to the menu.

According to the menu and the staff, dishes are meant to be shared family style. This works for some of the selections, but not as well for others (some of the soups and appetizers just don't lend themselves to sharing). However, the Restaurant has responded to initial complaints that portions were too small, and the plates are definitely coming out of the kitchen heavier.

Service was for the most part professional. A critical error is the provision of the wine list before the menus are brought out. It is inappropriate to prompt diners to order wine before they have any idea what they will be eating. The Setai likely seeks to encourage tables to order a bottle of champagne or white wine as an aperitif, but anyone interested in doing so can certainly ask. Wines are to be paired with food. Bring the wine list with the menu, please.

Additionally, there seemed to be an entire team of people handling the table--two servers, a busser, and the somelier. One too many interuptions was endured as numerous individuals came by to check up on things. Still, and the Baron has said this before, overattentive service is always preferable to absent service, and this is the sort of thing that gets worked out after a few months.

The champagne. Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Rose Reserve 1998. If you're not drinking rose champagnes, you should be. Veuve Cliquot is arguably the best, with the 96 and 98 vintages being the most commonly found. Champagne is an excellent match with Asian fare, or indeed anything with spice. The Setai's wine list is extensive and includes some rare vintages. Be sure to visit the glassed-in cellar toward the back of the Crustacean. They have Quinterelli.

Carpaccio of blue fin tuna and scallops. Blue fin tuna and sea scallops thinly sliced with cucumber. There was also some lime and cilantro thrown in, making the dish a bit like a ceviche. Fresh, bright flavors. Clean and well executed.

Whole Hong Kong-style red snapper with ginger, scallions, and hot sauce. The whole fish was fresh, fragrant, and fileted tableside. The Baron would have performed the surgery himself, but did not wish to risk the possibility of flying debris, bones, or sauce. A very well-executed and beautifully-presented dish. Whole fish is always preferable to a filet. Don't let the waiter take the head away--the best bite of fish is behind the cheeks.

Pad Thai with egg netting. The Setai's pad thai is a standout, and the egg netting an unusual touch. Pad thai traditionally contains bits of omelette (as does Chinese fried rice and numerous other Asian dishes). Here, rather than mix the egg in with the noodles, the kitchen creates a web of cooked egg atop a carefully sculpted mound of noodles. The effect is elegant and presents well. The pad thai itself includes numerous plump shrimp, and while slightly greasy (as most pad thais are), the noodles are cooked properly and well seasoned.

Macaroons coffee-cardamon, rose, and sesame vanilla. The Baron is fairly certain the macaroons come from Paul Bakery, the Parisian based chain that recently opened its first American branch in North Miami Beach. If so, the Restaurant would do well to add the pistachio macaroons, as they are the best. If you like desert wines (of course you do), try the Pedro Ximenez from Spain. Stellar.

Prime 112: Is There a Cardiologist in the House?

Prime 112 is owner Myles Chafetz's brainstorm, success story, gold mine, and childrens' college fund. Since it opened about two years ago, the place has been jam-packed and remains one of the hottest tables in town. "Prime" refers to the dry aged prime beef that is at the core of the menu. Prime 112 gets its beef from the same purveyor as Peter Lugar. That should tell you something. The "112" refers to the address--112 Ocean Drive. The restaurant is located in the restored Brown Hotel, which was originally built in 1915. The building still contains a few hotel rooms upstairs from the restaurant.

The room itself is all brick, wood, and leather. Sinatra music often plays from the speakers. In the rear is the open kitchen. Up front is a very active bar, and the bar snacks consist of slices of cooked bacon. A nice touch. Prime 112 bills itself as a modern steakhouse, and indeed it is. It lacks the stuffy formality of many old-school meat temples. More importantly, though, the clientele makes the difference. Prime 112 is a scene. On any given night you will likely encounter a terribly interesting blend of bold-faced names and celebrities both minor and major. And (always critically important to the Baron) beautiful women. Don't let yourselves be sequestered upstairs or you will miss the show.

Given the atmosphere, the popularity, and the exceptional quality of the food (the Baron is getting to that), Prime 112 is one of the toughest reservations in town. So let us address the 800 pound gorilla in the room, shall we? Prime 112 has a real problem with reservations. Which is to say, Prime 112 fails to honor reservations in a timely fashion. In this particular instance, the Baron and his party had a 9 PM reservation. The Baron was not seated until 9:40. Moreover, the hostesses are easily the rudest and most obnoxious of any on the Beach. The floor managers are not much better. The Baron has encountered this problem on numerous occassions, with wait times running anywhere from 30 to 90 minutes beyond the scheduled reservation time. This is completely unac'ceptable, but the restaurant is doing so well that no one seems to care and business has not suffered. Dropping the owner's name, offering cash bribes, or threatning to call Tim Zagat may or may not get you somewhere.

While the people working the front should be slapped silly, the waitstaff is excellent. Once seated guests are treated exceptionally well. Service is gracious, friendly, and professional. The staff has been well-trained and everyone is familiar with the menu and the wine list. So on to the food.

Hearts of romaine caesar with brioche croutons and shaved parmesean. Any steakhouse of merit has an excellent caesar and Prime is no exception. The salad is simply enormous. One was big enough to feed all six people at the table. The bioche croutons are a cut above, and the long ribbons of shaved parm add to the richness of the dressing. Prime offers the usual assortment of appetizers--shrimp cocktail, caviar, oysters, salads, tuna tartare. The tradional escargot with fresh herbs and garlic butter is a standout.

Twenty-two ounce bone-in ribeye. The beef is outstanding and as good as any you will find in Miami. Rich, juicy, and perfectly cooked. Prime 112 raises the bar by offering a selection of sauces and compound butters to enhance the carnivore experience. Sauces include Prime 112 steak sauce, horseradish cream, carbernet, chimichurri, and the obligatory hollandaise and bearnaise. Better though are the compound butters--gorgonzola, truffle, foie gras, chipotle lime, and garlic and herb. Smear some truffle or foie gras butter on top of your steak and you will feel your arteries clogging. But in a good way. There is also Hawaiian sea salt on the table if you like such things. The steak does not need it.

The kitchen features a selection of cuts including filet mignon, NY strip, T-bone, and porterhouse in various weights. Veal and lamb are also on offer, as are Kobe-style hamburgers and hotdogs, and a churrasco. The kitchen will also prepare main lobster (stuffed if you prefer), and a small assortment of fish dishes.

Excellent though it was, the Baron had second thoughts about his steak after two of his fellow diners received their one-pound Kobe burgers along with a basket of fries large enough to feed a high-school marching band (including the fat tuba player). The burger is enormous, decadent, and outrageously rich. Is $30 too much for a burger? Not if it brings a big smile to your face. What price happiness?

The sides. Meat this good calls for sides to match. The sides at Prime are the best anywhere (save for the creamed spinach at the Palm, which is still unsurpassed). Most highly recommended is the four cheese truffle "MAC" which is of course fancified macaroni and cheese. The house made "tater tots" are also obligatory and transcendent. The sauteed spinach with garlic was too salty--the only food-related mistep of the evening. Other sides worth trying include the serrano ham and manchego cheese gratin and the sweet potato and vanilla bean mash.

Wine. Prime 112 has a good wine selection, but prices run high. Looks to be three times retail in many instances. The Dominus Napanook worked perfectly in this instance (available by the glass). There is corkage, so if you have a favorite bottle, bring it with you.

Dessert. The Baron passed on dessert this time, feeling rather like Sigourney Weaver in one of the Alien movies. However, from past experience the Baron would press you to the home made chocolate chunk cookies. You can get that with a scoop of vanilla ice cream if you really want to go straight to hell (or to the doctor's office for that angioplasty). Wash it down with some port, grappa, or whatever digestif you prefer. Most of the good ones are available. And try to go as frequently as you can. Maybe the girls up front will get to know your face and stop treating you like you have leprosy.