Tuesday, August 30, 2005

Nemo: Dining Under the Pigeon Plum Tree

Nemo is restaurateur Myles Chafetz's first venture in the South of Fifth neighborhood. Opened in '95, it is a veritable dinosaur by South Beach standards. Former partner Michael Schwartz is long gone (and now cooking at Afterglow). Chef Mike Sabin is currently at the helm, having been in the kitchen at the restaurant's inception, departed, and now returned (there and back again). But despite the comings and goings, Nemo remains one of the Beach's strongest contenders.

The combination of indoor and outdoor seating (under the pigeon plum tree) along with the open kitchen, jazz soundtrack, and creative wine list, makes Nemo unique among South Beach restaurants. Also notable are the raw bar, copper covered menus, crusty bread served with hummus, and dessert menu from celebrity pastry chef Hedy Goldsmith. Nemo's menu is fairly consistent, but specials are usually thrown in to keep things interesting. Nemo also seves lunch (try the Maine lobster cobb salad) and an outstanding Sunday Brunch.

The tomato salad. The tomatoes were enormous, and each slice was at least an inch thick. These are top-quality tomatoes, and summer is the best time for them. Full of juicy tomato flavor, with a firm texture. The tomatoes are served on a bed of arugala, topped with thin slices of parmaggiano reggiano, and sprinkled with sea salt and balsamic syrup. Also commendable are the spicy Vietnamese beef salad and the spicy calamari stir fry.

Grilled marker swordfish. Swordfish steak topped with halved cherry tomatoes and cherry tomato vinaigrette atop a sweet corn sautee with pancetta. Unfortunately, the kitchen was heavy-handed with the salt, which is the only problem the Baron has ever experienced in all of his visits to Nemo. The wok-charred salmon sometimes comes out salty too. However, this is easily correctable by advising the waiter when ordering. The Baron also recommends the pan seared yellowtail snapper with Maine lobster hash browns (the Maine lobster hash browns can be ordered as a side dish at any time) and the seared rare nori dusted tune with crispy ginger rice ball.

The wine. Caymus Conundrum '03. Nemo serves its cocktails and wines by the glass out of small carafes set in ice baths, which means you get a glass and a half or whatever you order. The Baron likes that. The wine list is mostly California and has some good selections, including Nickel & Nickel.

Nemo could indeed be deemed expensive, but given the quality of the food, the professionalism of the waiters, as well as the ambience, Nemo is well worth it. An excellent spot for a date, especially if the weather permits sitting outside.

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